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  1. #16

    Solved the problem of my bulbs dropping off WIFI

    See my previous posts on this subject. I am pretty sure the problems rest with older routers. I purchased a newer router NightHawk Netgear C6900 and everything works great now.

  2. #17
    I tend to agree RJarrett. My old router finally died and I replaced it with a Netgear NightHawk AC9100. The disconnects have stopped.

  3. #18
    Quote Originally Posted by ronabop View Post
    I've been having similar problems, I have a 20 device network, my LB120/LB130 lightbulbs would occasionally not respond to Echo/Alexa commands, or drop off the network entirely (Kasa couldn't see them either), so I did the following things:
    1. I upgraded my router to an OnHub (TP-link makes one model, ASUS makes another), since they claim that can support up 100+ devices. Many less expensive routers are more limited in device support, so if you have a $20-$50 router, and are having issues, it might be worth looking into. The device I picked cost about $150 USD, but I have a lot going on over my network, so I could justify it.
    2. I also wound up turning off my local (Comcast) private network, to prevent "double NAT", and changed all my devices over to the new network/router (Which took me about half an hour, might take somebody else a few hours if they don't spend a lot of time working on networks). For the lightbulbs, turn them off and on 3 times, "add" them in Kasa, and they'll get the names they had before. For HS 100's, hold down the settings button. This combination bumped up my WIFi speeds in the process, after I did both things I went from from 97Mbs/sec to 230 Mbs/sec on my faster computer, which is nice.
    3.I also found a for the firmware upgrader, for folks looking for that. On the FAQ page for the plugs )(not the lightbulbs), http://www.tp-link.com/us/faq-949.html, there's a link to:
    http://static.tp-link.com/iotUpgradeTool_V1.0.zip
    The iotUpgradeTool does what we all kind of hope/expect the Kasa app to do... update firmware. Even though it's on the plugs FAQ page, it also does lightbulbs. It requires a windows machine of some kind to run (so, if you're a Mac or Linux house, you might need to borrow one, and put it on your network while updating firmware).
    a.) extract it and run the "main" application in the folder.
    b.) Press "scan" to get a list of devices on the same network as the machine running the tool.
    c.) Select a device and press "upgrade". It'll churn away and upgrade you devices.
    After doing so today (2/12/2017) for all the devices, the Lightbulbs (LB120,LB130) are on "1.2.3 Build 170123, Rel 100146", and the WiFi switches, HS100's, are on "1.1.2 Build 161014, Rel 12426"
    First, THANK YOU for posting the link to the firmware updater, the TP-Link site is horrible, something this basic should not be so difficult to find.

    However I keep receiving error messages, all variations on "upgrade failed". It took a while to get to that point as a combination of firewall and network segmentation gave me lots of grief in being able to scan and find the bulbs but I was finally successful in finding all four of them. Because the update fails on the first bulb and does not continue after that I tried to relaunch the app in the hopes of having the bulbs discovered in a different order, but not matter which bulb is first it always fails in the same way (see attached)

    I also found that I got improved reliability/fewer dropoffs once I upgraded my previous router (a recent Netgear) to Google Wifi, the bulbs were on the other side of the house form my office so the mesh provides better coverage. I can see that my bulbs have between -58 and -70 dBm signal strength, which ought to be sufficient. At this point I don't know how to proceed and don't have great hopes for a solution from TP-Link based on prior requests


    .Name:  tplink fail.png
Views: 0
Size:  114.7 KB

    Regards,

    Matt

  4. #19
    Try selecting the bulb you want to upgrade in the top window. I was able to do one at a time rather than all at once.

    The tp link IoT local protocol is using broadcast UDP so depending on how your mesh network works it may be blocking requests that are not direct to the tp link device.

    In any case you might want to try moving a bulb closer to the station used by the computer, or even better try connecting them both to the gateway directly.

  5. #20
    Thanks Mike, the interface didn't suggest that single selections were possible but then again it took someone in this forum to reveal where the tool was so I guess I should have banged on it more. I did try making sure that I was connected to the same wifi point as the bulbs but it didn't make a difference, and as the entire mesh is subnetted as a single network segment the traffic would have been between IPs within the same network. When I get home tonight I will try to select one at a time.

  6. #21
    So I tried one at a time, upgrade still fails for each device. How does the updater app know which firmware to apply? If the updater we are using came from a different product area, where is the package coming from that is specific to our bulbs? Does that have to be downloaded separately for the upgrade utility to be able to apply it?

    I went searching through the TP-Link site and started at the top level and drilled down in the hierarchy to see what they have to say about updating our firmware, they indicate that Kasa is used for this but when I try it it says there is no update for any devices it can connect to (all LB120's, each at v1.0.9.

    You know how in the cartoons a light bulb appears over the head of a character when they have a great idea? I'm pretty sure it's not a TP-Link bulb.

  7. #22
    FWIW the update seems to have sorted my problem, my bulbs have stay connected since the were updated.

    That little utility checks the bulb type and firmware, then updates the bulb if it needs it. I know that as when I tried to update my HS200 it reported it was already at the right level. My other devices were all updated properly and they're all of different types.

    The same subnet works well for TCP but UDP is different. Whether it's going to work depends on how the network and what TP Link is doing in that little application. My guess would be they didn't test it with a mesh network. I'd probably try different things depending on effort - see if I could force the PC and devices onto the same network device, reset a bulb and try linking the PC directly to the bulb AP and update one at a time, use an old router and connect everything to it for the update. Perhaps an old router could be pressed into service as an access point, maybe dedicated to the TP Links? You'd need a separate SSID to make that work, though you could use the same subnet.

  8. #23

    Maybe something to try...

    I don't recall if I was forced to do firmware upgrades individually, but seeing as how I wrote something down about "Select a device", I probably ran into the same issues with not being able to do them all with one button push. I do recall not getting some devices on the first try (because it left me with a sense of bone-chilling fear of having "bricked" devices, but this was not the case).

    For my setup, I got mine working using the same fundamental (almost) software as Google WiFI points with only my one OnHub device (OnHub and Google Wifi are supposed to be similar enough that you can interchange them on a network).... but I note that I was only using the one OnHub device in my setup.

    One idea to replicate my success might be to power down all but the primary GoogleWiFi point, so the meshing is not a factor.

    If the mesh is required for backhaul (say, for a lightbulb waaaay on the other side of a building), you could temporarily move the lightbulb/outlet/etc. to a fixture/socket closer to the Wifi point, or temporarily run a long ethernet cable from your modem, to put a primary closer WiFi point to a lightbulb/outlet (if, for example, it's way up high or otherwise inaccessable...)

    So:
    Wall---->Primary Wifi---->Secondary Wifi---->Lightbulb/Outlet

    Becomes:
    Wall---->Primary Wifi----->Lightbulb/Outlet

    Or
    Wall---------------------->Primary Wifi----->Lightbulb/Outlet


    Also, to follow up, last night, I had another problem with Alexa/Echo connecting (in this case, with my LB130), so I had to use Kasa to turn off a light.

    It was the first time it happened to me since I updated the firmware... so while the problem for me is greatly, greatly, diminished (YAY! ) from once every 2-3 days, to once a month, it's still happening (Yay?).
    Last edited by ronabop; 03-10-2017 at 16:49.

  9. #24
    I just bought a UK version of the LB110 in the UK off Amazon and have had similar connectivity issues. Worse in fact - it only stays connected for a few minutes and then needs a reset. Firmware is currently 1.2.1

    I got on the webchat and was given a link to the update tool and firmware of 1.2.3 Rel. 100146 but it says device unsupported so now assuming that the UK (240V) version requires a different firmware version.

    If anyone finds a UK version of the firmware please post - I shall do like wise should TP-Link respond to my request.

    as a side issue, I was poking around looking at the code in the firmware and see the following;


    "<?xml version="1.0"?>
    <formula1>
    <team name="McLaren">
    <driver>
    <name>Kimi Raikkonen</name>
    <points>112</points>
    </driver>
    <driver>
    <name>Juan Pablo Montoya</name>
    <points>60</points>
    </driver>
    </team>
    </formula1>"

    Seems very odd for an unrelated smart device???

  10. #25

    That's demo/stub code.

    Quote Originally Posted by Sp!ke View Post
    I just bought a UK version of the LB110 in the UK off Amazon and have had similar connectivity issues. Worse in fact - it only stays connected for a few minutes and then needs a reset. Firmware is currently 1.2.1

    I got on the webchat and was given a link to the update tool and firmware of 1.2.3 Rel. 100146 but it says device unsupported so now assuming that the UK (240V) version requires a different firmware version.

    If anyone finds a UK version of the firmware please post - I shall do like wise should TP-Link respond to my request.

    as a side issue, I was poking around looking at the code in the firmware and see the following;


    "<?xml version="1.0"?>
    <formula1>
    <team name="McLaren">
    <driver>
    <name>Kimi Raikkonen</name>
    <points>112</points>
    </driver>
    <driver>
    <name>Juan Pablo Montoya</name>
    <points>60</points>
    </driver>
    </team>
    </formula1>"

    Seems very odd for an unrelated smart device???
    A likely source seems to be something like https://github.com/lxfontes/ezxml/search?utf8=✓&q=Juan , or the related http://stackoverflow.com/questions/3...ml-parsing-api , It's coming from using the the ezxml library, which uses those strings for their demo code... some of that probably got left in by accident/oversight.

  11. #26
    Spoke too soon on the stability issue,while the firmware update seems to have helped my other TP Link devices, my LB130 continues to fall of the network daily. I checked the wifi log on the router and it looks like the LB130 just stops responding to authentication challenges and likely everything else it's sent. The router takes it offline and reports "no route to host" until I power cycle the bulb.

  12. #27

    Lightbulb Somethings to try

    I have some suggestions. You say the bulb falls off daily. Coincidentally, that is the default DHCP lease time on my router (TP-Link C-3150). Perhaps the failure occurs when the "lease" is being renewed.
    I have no problems on my two bulbs (120 and 130). That may be because I have RESERVED the addresses for my bulbs and the lease time is "Permanent".

    So, my suggestion is trying assigning your bulbs to a reserved IP address and see if that helps.

    For the Archer C3150, that is on the Advanced > Network > DHCP Server page near the bottom. It may be elsewhere on your server.

    If it works - shout it out.

  13. #28
    Thanks for the suggestions. I've got 5 TP link devices - HS100, HS110, HS200, LB120 and LB130. The HS's have ad no problem staying connected since they've been installed. The LB120 rarely disconnects but has a few times, while the LB130 will drop daily and even a few times per day. Both bulbs are at the same firmware level.

    After some experimenting I'm pretty sure there's at least a hardware problem and perhaps a firmware problem with the LB130 bulb.

    The LB130 would stop responding within 2 hours when it's in the fixture furthest from my router while the LB120 shows no problems. Swapping the two (the original LB120's fixture is closer to the router) and the LB130 will only fail about once per day while the LB120 will still run in that further fixture quite happily.

    When the LB130 drops offline it appears to stop responding to the router's wifi authentication requests (based on my router log). A restart of the bulb (power cycle) or a restart of the router will bring the bulb back online.

    I'm hoping the TP Link engineers will notice this report to double check (and perhaps comment!) whether there's a firmware problem causing the bulb to crash freeze if the wifi signal is marginal.

    Unfortunately I'm not able to exchange the LB130 to figure out if it's just that bulb or all of them.

  14. #29
    I have found a difference in behavior between Android and IOS kasa Apps in terms of stability with IOS not only being more stable but also being able to natively perform a firmware update to 1.2.3 unlike the Android Kasa App.

    Interested to know what flavour others in this thread have to confirm or spanner throw my own experience.

    FWIW, 1.2.3 doesnt improve matters with Android but with IOS it seems to maintain the connection better albeit with a 5-10 second delay when making changes (as if it is using remote rather than local control).
    Last edited by Sp!ke; 03-30-2017 at 23:03.

  15. #30
    You are correct on the Android version not providing upgrade capability. But even worse - it indicates it does and says you do not need any. This NEEDS TO BE FIXED.
    I also do not trust the data displayed in the Energy Usage tab. For example, I just woke up, yet it says one of my bulbs has been on for 2.62 hours and the other for 0 hours. Not true at all.
    I do not use the KASA very much since I have transitioned to SmartThings control using a bridge and custom code.


 

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